Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists alike praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always characterized its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – little-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to learn these tales and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
